Introduction
All
that glitters is not gold, sometimes it's brass. For many
model railroaders, the goal of owning fine scale brass models
represents one of the crowning achievements in the hobby yet many don't
fully understand their history or all they represent. Whether you
currently own brass, plan to in the future or simply want to find
out more about the subject we hope you'll find the information
contained in this primer helpful.
Mention brass models to any model railroader today and they'll
immediately equate them with high prices but believe it or not they
did not start out that way. In fact, the first brass models were
priced about the same as models made out of any other substrate at
the time. Brass models were introduced simply as an
alternative to the other materials in use such as plastic or zamac.
Why Brass?
Key Imports 2-8-4 Berkshire
Nickel Plate Road |
So
why was brass chosen and not another material? Brass was
available, relatively inexpensive, fairly easy to work with and
perhaps best of all non-magnetic so it didn't interfere with the
electric motors that propel the models. Other metals would
slowly interact with the motors and demagnetize them over time
causing the models to run poorly or many times not at all.
Another great characteristic of brass is that is does not
deteriorate. If left unpainted brass will tarnish but this
reaction takes place only on the surface and can be cleaned up
relatively easily with chemicals or by media blasting.
That's why you see even the most heavily tarnished pieces still
commanding the high prices they do.
Quick History
So
how and when did this whole phenomenon begin? Almost
everything that's ever been written about how brass models got
started lists a slightly different year but most experts do agree
that it all began shortly after World War II in Japan when American G.I's who were also model railroad enthusiasts began visiting the
"Tetsudo Mokeisha" hobby shop. It was there that Japanese
craftsmen began displaying and selling their hand made brass models
of Japanese prototype locomotives. It was only a matter of
time before some of the American G.I.'s asked these craftsmen to
produce some North American prototype models and this was the humble
beginnings of what we have today.
Key Imports 4-8-4 GS-4
Southern Pacific "Daylight" |
Japan continued to be the leader in fine scale brass model
production up until the late 1970's but times were changing.
Japan was itself becoming an economic power and as such labor was
becoming very expensive so Korea entered the market. Many of
the first Korean made models (circa 1980-1985) had "teething
problems". Korean craftsmen were learning the construction
processes during this time so generally speaking the models were not
of the best quality. Many customers however, were not put off
by this because Korea was already pushing the envelope by producing
different models that the Japanese craftsmen wouldn't. To
control labor costs Japan would use the same molds, assembly jigs
and techniques and as you might suspect this resulted in the same
models being produced over and over again with only slight
variations. Korean
craftsmen on the other hand were willing to produce a wider variety
of prototypes so even though the quality wasn't a good as Japan,
many model railroaders overlooked this issue so they could get the
models they wanted. Eventually Korea not only caught up to but
many will agree they have eclipsed Japan in terms of both the
quality and the variety of brass models they offer.
How Come They Cost So
Much?
P-B-L DM&IR "G" Caboose
(Shown Unpainted) |
So
lets get into what is traditionally the most often asked question
among model railroaders which is "What makes brass models so
costly?" First off one must understand that the cost is not
because of the material itself, it's the "art". In any given
N-Scale brass model you'd be hard pressed to find more than about
$10.00 of actual brass and although most of today's models use
high quality can motors that is not the reason they cost so much
either. It's the engineering and the labor that accounts for
most of the cost. Unlike plastic models where it's not unusual
to produced 10,000 units in a given production run, a typical
brass model run may only consist of only 100 pieces. This makes
investing in "hard tooling" impractical. Instead, brass model
manufacturers have to rely on "soft tooling" such as that used for
lost wax casting and relatively simple jigs for bending metal into the exact same
shape every time. Also the assembly and painting process of a
brass model is done entirely by hand.
The
fabrication of brass model components is very complex and the actual
processes used can get quite technical. It is beyond
the scope of this primer. You also have to consider that once
the fabrication is completed the parts must be soldered together.
Soldering is an art in itself and takes many years of experience to
be able to do well. Suffice to say that brass model production
is an extremely labor intensive process and that's what makes the
final product cost what it does.
So
is it worth paying for this "art"? Well, since it's inception
any form of art has always been subjective. Is it worth paying
a $1000.00 for an N-Scale steam engine that consists of only $10.00
of actual brass? Is it worth paying $1,000,000.00 or more for an
original Picasso or Renoir that consists of only $10.00 of paint?
There is no correct answer to either question. It's an
individual choice which each person must make for themselves.
Ultimately you not only need the financial means but also the
artistic appreciation
for what you are buying.
How Do I Get Started?
P-B-L 2-8-8-2 M-4
DM&IR "Yellowstone" |
So
let's say you've decided to purchase a brass model, where's a good
place to start Well it almost goes without saying but the
first thing you should know is to do business only with a reputable
dealer who's an authorized agent of the importer you are interested
in. While it may be tempting to use secondary market sources
such as train shows or online auctions because of the lower cost, we
advise staying away from these sources at least until you know what
you are doing. We have no problem with secondary market
sources, in fact, they are
sometimes the only way to purchase certain items but for your first
brass purchase it's better to purchase a brand new model from a
recent production. This way you know it will run as good as it
looks. Remember it wasn't that long ago when brass models
were produced primarily for the shelf and not necessarily for
running on the
layout. It's only in recent years that N-Scale brass models
have been being built with high performance drives systems.
Models produced as late as the early 2000's still have some major drive
line issues. Purchasing a brand new model from a recent
production will ensure that your model runs as good as it looks.
This
next suggestion may surprise some of you but generally speaking we
recommend purchasing brass steam engines instead of diesels.
Yes, there are always exceptions to this rule of thumb but consider
that prototype steam engines were truly one of a kind machines and
the likelihood of them being produced accurately in plastic is very
small. Even so-called USRA machines that were born of a common
design soon took on unique characteristics as each of the railroads
shops modified them to their own specifications. This is
exactly why you want to own these in brass because they will
produced exactly as they looked during the time period they were
intended to represent. While diesels also took on many
railroad specific modifications many of these were internal.
Also, if you are considering brass for investment then steam engines
are a much better choice because once a diesel is produced in
plastic, and so many of them are these days, the value of the brass
model can drop dramatically. Finally, and perhaps the best
argument to purchase plastic diesels is that they usually run in
multi-unit operation a lot better than brass models can. Even
if you don't mind the cost of four, five or six brass diesels, they
may not be able to operate smoothly together because the drive
systems are all built by hand and this normally does not result in
the same tight tolerances that can be offered by the mass produced
drives of the plastic manufacturers.
So
what are the best models to own? Well, there really is not
straight answer to that question. The most important thing to
remember is that you are going to be the owner and you have to buy
what you like. If you are buying to collect, many folks prefer
to concentrate on the specific road name that they already model.
If buying to operate then it's important to stick to the latest
releases because they are the ones that will run the best. If
buying for investment then you should study the market carefully and
see which models have the most potential to increase in value.
You'll need to make your own conclusions here, we can offer no
advice.
Conclusion
It's been said that brass models are not for everyone and that's
sort of the whole beauty of them. If everyone owned a large
collection of brass then they wouldn't be a special or as valuable
as they are.
Brass Gallery
The following are
close ups of various KEY IMPORTS models. Although all of these
models are long sold out/discontinued we encourage you to click on
each image and study the amazing level detail and accuracy achieved.
C&O 2-6-6-6
H-8 Allegheny |
C&O 2-6-6-6
H-8 Allegheny
Firebox Close Up |
C&O 2-8-4 Kanawa |
PRR 2-8-0 H10 |
PRR 4-8-2 M1 |
PRR 4-8-2 M1
Tender |
PRR 4-6-4-4 Q2
Top of Boiler |
PRR 4-6-4-4 Q2
Locomotive Front |